This plug here is removed to pour the new oil in:
Use the special tool to undo it, or make one from a piece of flat bar with curve ground on the end. Unscrew the primary chaincase upper inspection plug. Put wood under the stand to hold bike near vertical.ģ. Again, if the bike has not been ridden in years, change the oil cold before the first ride, then change again at 100 miles.Ģ. Ride the bike to get transmission oil up to working temperature.
#Shovelhead transmission oil change manual#
The manual says you can leave it longer, but I don’t like the idea of wear particles from the primary chain tensioner and clutch plates circulating through the delicate needle roller bearings in the gearbox.ġ. I change mine every time I change the engine oil. Tranny oil is often overlooked and seems to cause more headaches then engine oil. Now you are ready to change the transmission oil.
#Shovelhead transmission oil change full#
Oil level, if you have no dipstick, is about Full is about 2 inches below filler cap gasket surface. I had to cut my dipstick down to fit it, right on the low mark, so that is ok.ĭrop in oil filter for pre-79 XLH sidemounted oil tank:Ĭut down dip stick for JP oil filter. I like the drop in filters from JP Cycles (JP part no 7400225) with the pleated automotive style element and spring loaded bypass valve. XLH side mounted oil tank, pre-1979 has a filter that drops in the oil filler neck and filters the returning oil. Put in a new drop-in oil filter if your model has one. Then stop and top the oil up to the full mark, no further.ħ. Fill the oil tank up to the low mark on the dipstick, or about ¾ full by sight.Ħ. The filter should be in the return line, so no need to prime it.ĥ. If you have an aftermarket inline oil filter, screw the old one off, and screw on a new one. Buy a bag of them at the local hardware or auto store cheap. I also put a smear of hard-setting gasket goo like Permatex on the threads, not so seal them but to stop the plug vibrating loose. When all oil has drained out of the oil tank, put the oil tank drain plug back, with a new copper washer on it to seal it. Repairing that thread properly can require splitting the crankcases and you don’t want to go there.Ĥ. There is so little oil in the sump it is not worth the risk of messing with.
These are notorious for stripping their threads. DO NOT take any drain plug out of the bottom of the sump of the engine, at the front, under the crankcase. Remove oil tank drain plug and drain the oil.ģ. Put some wood under the side stand to get bike close to vertical Place a folded newspaper under oil tank, leading into oil drain tray. Park bike on lawn where spilt oil is not a problem.Ģ. (If bike has sat for years unstarted, change oil cold before first start up, then change again after about 100 miles). Start the engine and run it until the bike is good and hot, normal operating temperature. Transmission oil capacity is 1.5 pints, or 24oz by the manual, but I have had mine take 28 oz to get it up to the level plug. It is checked and topped up at the primary chaincase cover. (There is a small crossover vent valve between the primary case and crankcase on earlier models but oil flow through there is normally negligible.) The transmission oil lubricates the primary chain, clutch and the gearbox. Only top it up after running the engine to clear any drained down oil from the sump first, or you will end up with an overfull oil tank and oil will puke out the engine breather, onto the floor on pre-79 models, into the air filter 79 and onwards. The oil tank has a supply line from the bottom, a return line to the top, and a third, smaller vent line that runs from the top of the oil tank to the rear of the cam timing chest, in behind the timing chest, behind the rear cylinder. The oil pump, under the engine on the right, near the front, circulates the oil to and from the tank. The engine oil is kept in the oil tank under the seat, filler cap on the right hand side, drain plug in the bottom of the tank. See the sticky thread on “Dehibernating the Ironhead” for more details on first start up preparation. Old oil that has been sitting for years can do damage right from jump street, so you should change that oil before firing up for the first time. Earler tin primary covers are slightly different, and earlier/later models had different oil tanks.Īn Ironhead has two separate oil sytems, engine and transmission, so needs two oil changes before you go ride anyplace on that new bike. Others who have pics of other models etc, please add info as you see fit. So I thought I would put the basics and a few pics together for the newbs. How do I change the oil, and is the transmission / primary / gearbox oil separate from the engine oil or the same? This has got to be the Number 1 question on here by new Ironhead owners who are still waiting for their workshop manual to arrive.
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